A good wool coat is the piece you wear most from October to March. It goes over a suit on Monday and over a jumper and jeans on Saturday, and if you choose well it will look right for many winters. This guide explains, in plain words, what to look for before you buy: fabric, fit, length, colour and the small details that make a coat last.
1. Start with the fabric label
The label tells you more than the photos. Here is how to read it:
- 100% wool is the warmest and most breathable choice. It keeps you warm even when it is damp, and good wool softens and looks better with age.
- Wool blends mix wool with fibres such as polyester or polyamide. A blend with a high share of wool (roughly 60% or more) keeps most of the warmth, while the synthetic part helps the coat keep its shape and resist wear.
- Polyester or “wool-look” fabrics can look similar and cost less, but they are less warm and less breathable. They are a good choice for autumn and mild winter days, or as a second coat.
Also check the lining. A smooth lining (often polyester or viscose) helps the coat slide on over knitwear and adds a little warmth.
2. Get the fit right: shoulders first
The shoulders are the one part a tailor cannot easily change, so start there. The shoulder seam should sit at the edge of your own shoulder, or just past it if you want a relaxed look. Then check:
- Room for layers: wear the thickest jumper you plan to put under the coat when you try it. You should be able to button it without pulling across the chest.
- Sleeve length: the sleeve should cover your shirt cuff and end around the base of your thumb.
- Movement: reach forward as if you were holding a steering wheel. If the back feels tight, go one size up.
Shopping online? Check the fit and size information on the product page, and if you are between two sizes, choose the larger one for a winter coat.
3. Choose the right length
- Hip length is practical for driving and cycling and looks relaxed with jeans.
- Mid-length (to just above the knee) is the most versatile: smart enough over a suit, easy with casual clothes.
- Long (knee length or below) is the warmest and the most elegant. It is the classic quiet luxury choice and works best if you are average height or taller.
4. Pick a colour you will wear every day
If this is your main coat, choose a colour that goes with everything you already own:
- Camel is the signature quiet luxury colour. It looks warm and expensive with cream, grey, navy and black.
- Charcoal and grey are the easiest to wear with both tailoring and denim.
- Navy is softer than black and very smart over a suit.
- Black is sharp and simple, and it is perfect for evenings.
5. Look at the details
- Single- or double-breasted: single-breasted is cleaner and easier to wear open; double-breasted is warmer across the chest and more formal.
- Collar: a notched lapel is classic and a wider lapel is dramatic. A collar you can turn up gives extra protection from the wind.
- Pockets: deep side pockets that sit at a natural height are more useful than decorative ones.
- Buttons: they should be sewn on firmly, ideally with a spare button inside.
6. Care: how to make your coat last
- Hang it on a wide, shaped hanger so the shoulders keep their form.
- Brush it with a clothes brush after wearing to remove dust and keep the fibres fresh.
- Let it air overnight after a wet day before you put it back in the wardrobe.
- Spot-clean small marks, and follow the care label for dry cleaning, usually only once or twice a season.
- Store it clean over the summer in a breathable cover, with cedar or another moth protection.
Where to start
Browse our women’s coats and men’s coats, including long, double-breasted styles such as the long double-breasted wool overcoat. For the layers underneath, see women’s knitwear, men’s knitwear and our winter tailoring. Product pages list the sizes and main fabric, and delivery is free worldwide with 30-day returns.
Frequently asked questions
How warm is a wool coat?
A coat with a high wool content is warm enough for most European winters when worn over a jumper. For very cold, windy days, add a scarf, or choose a padded or down coat instead.
Should a winter coat be one size bigger?
Not always. Take your usual size if you only wear shirts or thin knits underneath. Go one size up if you plan to wear thick jumpers or a suit jacket under it, or if you are between two sizes.
Is a wool blend worse than 100% wool?
Not necessarily. A blend with a high share of wool stays warm and often wears better, because the synthetic fibres add strength. Blends with little wool are less warm, so always check the label.
How often should I dry-clean a wool coat?
Usually once or twice a season is enough. Brushing and airing it between wears keeps it fresh and makes it last longer.
